The kitchen shows signs of passion. Starters of intensely flavoured sweetcorn soup slicked with chive oil and a crunchy, nicely presented salad of endive, walnuts and blue cheese were satisfyingly simple and perfectly executed.

After three years of dereliction, this disadvantaged space beneath a block of Barbican flats has given rise to a welcoming restaurant. Something of a tardis, its pubby nooks & crannies stretch back much further than you’d expect, their individual character at odds with the brutalist architecture on view outside. This contrast is best appreciated from rear tables overlooking the Barbican lake, perhaps accompanied by a plate of competently executed pasta. The menu mixes Mediterranean flavours with Brit hits like fish & chips, before rounding off with comforting puds & cheeses from Neal’s Yard. A concise wine list carries several by-the-glass choices & bubblies are a speciality, so watch out for Champagne promotions.